South Asia '08, part two:
Kathmandu to Varanasi
We made one trip into Kathmandu proper, but we didn't feel compelled to return. It was sort of like Cairo: The Hassle from salespeople and guides, traffic from five directions, bored kids and underemployed adults hanging out on the centuries-old temples, staring at all of the tourists (like us) who milled around in their markets and backstreets. The Durbar Square complex is chock full of historical Hindu architecture, but you'd have to be a student of such things to get a lot out of it.
It was much better in Boudhanath, where we had our acommodations. More videos from both locations will come after we settle in in New Delhi (or perhaps when I return to Korea). I'm writing this from Bodhgaya, where the power has gone out and the generators have kicked in three times in 10 minutes. But that's the least important thing to mention about Bodhgaya (more in part four).
Anyhow...
We left Kathmandu (Boudhanath, really) on the 19th and flew to Varanasi. The city is replete with temples to Shiva, to whom the Hindus credit the city's founding and activity. Many people go to Varanasi to see something of the "real" or "old" India. Many go to study religion, practice meditation or reaffirm their belief with a baptism in the holy (but unfortunately septic) Ganges River. Many go to Varanasi to prepare to die. After death, the corpses are taken to "the burning ghat" to be creamted while family members perform the necessary rites.
Varanasi is a hive of alleys and corners and alcoves, full of the faithful and foreign tourists. Music and song emanates from the temples at almost all hours of day and night. There's caution given about crime at night, and I'd say that that caution ought to be heeded (although it would apply to many parts of India)... but what's more important is the texture and sound and smells and views that one will be able to take in there. It's humbling and silencing and inspiring all at once.
From Kathmandu and Boudhanath:
And then from Varanasi:
Part one ... Part three
It was much better in Boudhanath, where we had our acommodations. More videos from both locations will come after we settle in in New Delhi (or perhaps when I return to Korea). I'm writing this from Bodhgaya, where the power has gone out and the generators have kicked in three times in 10 minutes. But that's the least important thing to mention about Bodhgaya (more in part four).
Anyhow...
We left Kathmandu (Boudhanath, really) on the 19th and flew to Varanasi. The city is replete with temples to Shiva, to whom the Hindus credit the city's founding and activity. Many people go to Varanasi to see something of the "real" or "old" India. Many go to study religion, practice meditation or reaffirm their belief with a baptism in the holy (but unfortunately septic) Ganges River. Many go to Varanasi to prepare to die. After death, the corpses are taken to "the burning ghat" to be creamted while family members perform the necessary rites.
Varanasi is a hive of alleys and corners and alcoves, full of the faithful and foreign tourists. Music and song emanates from the temples at almost all hours of day and night. There's caution given about crime at night, and I'd say that that caution ought to be heeded (although it would apply to many parts of India)... but what's more important is the texture and sound and smells and views that one will be able to take in there. It's humbling and silencing and inspiring all at once.
From Kathmandu and Boudhanath:
And then from Varanasi:
Part one ... Part three
South Asia '08, part two:
Kathmandu to Varanasi
mr damon, 22:25
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